Helene jeans

I have finally finished my #makenine2023! I was very excited to make these jeans, but I absolutely called it when I said ‘don’t be surprised if this is the last of my 9 projects that gets completed!’ Although sewing jeans is just like making anything else but with more steps, there is a lot of preparation involved and this always makes it seem like a big undertaking. It never is though, once you actually get going!

I have had this 3m cut of Merchant and Mills Japanese selvedge denim in my stash since 2021, and hanging onto a fabric for a while makes it feel more precious to me somehow, so I find it increasingly difficult to take the plunge and use it the longer I have had it. Weirdly, the longer it has sat in my stash increasing in sentimental value, the less monetary value it has to me because the £45 I spent on it 2 years ago is long gone! Such mixed feelings, it’s best not to think about them too much!

As soon as the Anna Allen Helene Jeans pattern was released I knew my fabric had just been waiting to be turned into a pair. I had never worked with selvedge denim before, so knowing that the pattern was specifically designed for it made me feel like this would be the perfect introduction. I was very careful when pre-washing my denim to avoid getting white streaks on it as much as possible. I cut the length in half and put the two pieces in a bath of tepid water to get them completely wet before I put them in the washing machine. I used non-bio detergent and made sure I smoothed out any creases in the denim as I hung it on radiators to dry. This all worked brilliantly and I didn’t get any white marks at all – my denim also felt so much softer once it had been washed.

Having made jeans before, I actually had a few of the bits and bobs I needed in my stash already (jeans sewing needles for my machine, a jeans button and rivets). I bought two zips when we went to Ray Stitch in November (6″ and 7″ as I wasn’t sure which would be best once I had adjusted the rise) and I got some Gutermann extra strong thread for top-stitching when I was teaching at The Sewing Space a few weeks ago. If you haven’t used it before, this thread is brilliant because it’s not as thick as top-stitch thread so you don’t have to use a different needle in your sewing machine, but it still looks great on denim. I went for a coppery brown colour to match my hardware.

After studying the size chart, scouring the internet for reviews of the pattern, trawling the hashtag on Instagram and reading all of the SUPER useful posts by @thecrookedhem, I finally decided to make View B (slim straight leg) in a size 4. I toyed with the idea of grading from a 4 at the waist to a 6 at the hips, but it seemed like there would be enough ease to accommodate my hockey-player’s bottom and I wanted to avoid messing with the pattern as much as possible. I did remove 1/2″ from the rise, which is not something I would normally bother to do, but the lines on the pattern pieces made it so easy and as quite a short person, I was worried the high rise would just be too much.

Once my pattern and denim was cut and ready to go, I had no excuses to put my project off any longer! I waited until after my Thursday afternoon 1:1 to finish, then set up all 3 of my machines so I could overlock and also move between top-stitching and construction without re-threading anything (thank you, spare Janome.) I knew I had a good chunk of time to sew that evening and on Friday and Saturday, so I knuckled down with the aim of finishing before my next 1:1 on Sunday lunchtime and I was actually done by bedtime on Saturday!

I found the instructions to be really comprehensive and the construction was very straightforward. When to finish seams was clearly detailed and I have ended up with a really professional looking garment, with nice neat insides. The only thing I am not quite sure if I nailed was the fly. I think I constructed it correctly and everything fits together, but I have a feeling my zip isn’t attached far enough over on the fly facing as I found this part hard to follow. It looks normal from the outside and functions well, but I think it’s about 1/2″ wrong, which is possibly affecting the overall fit a smidgen. It’s not the end of the world, but I might need that extra 1/2″ after Christmas!

It’s difficult to assess the fit of a pair of jeans immediately and I have to admit that when I first put them on, I was quite worried that my decision not to graded to a size 6 at the hips was a mistake. The waistband sits right where I want it to and I have room to breathe, but from below the waistband to my upper thighs, everything was pretty form-fitting, verging on tight and this was particularly noticeable when sitting. I hoped that the denim would ‘give’ a bit, and sure enough, after a day of wear they have really loosened up! I think if I’d had graded to a 6, they would have been too baggy for my liking, so I’m pleased I made this call. The length is great (I made the 28″ inseam) and I like the fit through the leg – they’re slim, but well proportioned and they hang nicely.

The denim is absolutely beautiful and was a joy to work with. It’s soft and comfortable to wear and the colour is deep and rich, which will fade with wear in all the right places. I love the copper rivets and button against the dark navy and the topstitching thread is a great match. I’m really pleased with overall look I have achieved and know these jeans will be a well-worn addition to my wardrobe in 2024!