I first made the Tessuti Fabrics Berlin jacket waaaaay back in October 2018 and it’s one of the hardest working garments in my wardrobe. I am notorious for always being freezing cold and a boiled wool jacket is one of the only things that actually keeps me warm! I wore it more than ever this winter while working at the shop, so thought it was about time I made another.
A few weeks ago we went down to Margate to visit Sew by the Sea. I was really sad to hear that Jen had decided to close the business and wanted to pop in one last time before she stopped trading. I’ve bought some gorgeous fabrics from Jen since she opened the shop and have loved being part of her blogging team – it’s a real shame to lose such a gem! Obviously I did the honourable thing and helped clear some stock when we visited. I bought a couple of metres of Dashwood rayon, some cotton jersey for my husband, some lovely navy linen and 1.5 metres of beautiful blue boiled wool – absolutely perfect for another Berlin jacket!
I don’t often make the same garment again (with the exception of the Sew Over It Edie top, of which I now have five) and I really should – it’s so bloody easy! You know it fits, the pattern pieces are all cut out ready and you are familiar with the instructions – so bloody easy! It took me longer to decide whether or not to pre-wash my boiled wool than it did to cut and sew the entire jacket!
I decided not to in the end. I pre-washed the wool for my first Berlin jacket and I haven’t washed it since in over two and a half years. The jacket never touches your skin and wool is naturally antibacterial, so it really doesn’t require cleaning even with regular wear. The only slight problem is that quite a bit of ‘fluff’ is coming off the wool at the moment, but I’m sure that will reduce after a few wears.
The Berlin jacket really is the simplest of sews. Absolutely no seam finishing required because the edges are left raw and only two seams to press in the entire garment! I used my walking foot and a 3mm stitch-length and it sewed through the wool like a dream. I made the jacket over a couple of short evening sessions, but you could easily cut and sew the entire thing in an afternoon. I made the size XXS, which is designed to fit a 32” bust, 27” waist and 36” hip. I wouldn’t say the garment style is ‘oversized’, but the fit is generous enough that it suits my 33”, 27” and 38” proportions well. I love the cosy fit around the back of the neck, the comfortable dropped shoulders and of course – nice big pockets to warm your hands up or stash your phone. The facings give a really smart finish to the jacket and I love the way the cuffs look when you turn them back – effortless style!
You might be thinking that making a boiled wool jacket in June is absolute madness, but hear me out! During a spell of lush sunshine a few weeks ago, Melissa sewed some shorts and then the weather turned to shit. We decided that the safest bet is to sew for the weather you DON’T want, so I’ve taken one for the team and when it’s 25° and sunny next week, you will know who to thank!